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    Supra generations

    The Toyota Supra Community for all Supra generations

    Toyota Supra A90

    Owners of the fifth generation Toyota Supra are thrilled about that car

    Toyota Supra MKIV

    In July 1993, the fourth and so far last generation of the Supra came on the market. Internationally, this type is called " Supra MKIV ".

    Toyota Supra MKIII

    In early 1986, the third generation of the Supra was introduced. It is also the first that has not been marketed with the suffix Celica.

    Celica Supra (MK2)

    The second generation was presented in the fall of 1981 and had a completely independent drive with the new (170 hp) 6-cylinder engines.

    2000GT & Supra MK1

    The first Supra built from spring 1978 to summer 1981 was still offered as a top version of the Celica first in Japan and later in the United States.

    Hilfe beim Autokauf | Forum

    Lars2 Driver
    Hallo Leute,

    ich glaube ich habe mein Auto gefunden. Jetzt ist die Frage ob Ihr mir helfen könnt Fehler beim Kauf zu vermeiden.

    Es geht um dieses schöne Gerät.
    http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=219884978&isSearchRequest=true&zipcode=&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&scopeId=C&makeModelVariant1.makeId=24100&makeModelVariant1.modelId=33&pageNumber=1


    Ich hab mich sofort in Sie verliebt. Nur der Flügel muss da runter. Was mir gefällt ist das alle Originalteile dabei sind. Ich würd einfach gerne alles richtig machen damit später nicht das Böse erwachen kommt

    Das hier habe ich mal irgendwo gefunden und soll dazu dienen das Fahrzeug beim Kauf zu beurteilen.

    "eing that the Supra is an old car, a thorough checklist is very very important. So here it is. I know this is a huge list, but it is worth it. These are reliable cars if you take care of them properly. So I'd suggest probably printing this and taking it out to the car. Sorry if this is a little excessive!


    Initial Inspection
    ----------------------
    - Start the vehicle and look for gray smoke with a blue tint.
    - Let the car warm up and continue to stand behind the car checking for smoke.
    - Now move to the front of the car and open the hood. Listen for noises other than the injector ticking which is normal.
    - Now go back and watch the tailpipe for smoke and have someone apply steady throttle.
    - Now do the same but have them punch the throttle to 5000 RPM.

    Test Drive
    --------------
    - Have a friend follow behind you in another vehicle while you go for a test drive.
    - Have your friend watch for smoke while you drive.
    - Put the car in 2nd gear, let the RPM drop to about 1500 RPM, then punch the throttle and stay on it until redline and finally let off the throttle.
    - Your friend should be watching for gray and blue smoke similar to the initial inspection.
    - Make sure the car accelerates smoothly as you go through the RPMs.
    - Use all the gears in the transmission, and make sure they all shift smoothly.
    - While driving with the windows down, listen for clicking or popping noises coming from outside the car.
    - Make sure the brakes work smoothly and are reasonably quietly.
    - When coming to a stop take your hand slightly off the wheel and make sure it stays straight.
    - Make sure the car tracks straight on flat roads.
    - Listen for rattling in the targa top if applicable.
    - Make sure the power steering is smooth and quiet

    Inspection
    ----------------
    - Make sure the rear hatch opens and closes fine and that it can stay up on its own.
    - Make sure both doors open and close smoothly.
    - Check for fresh oil leaks, and check the rear CV joint boots for cracks.
    - Once parked after the test drive, move the car again to another location and check original for puddle of any sort.
    - Check all wheels, inside and out for curb rash or bends.
    - Check for excessive or uneven wear on the tires.
    - Check for cheap or miss-matched tires.
    - Look to see if all the little plastic panels and parts under the car all line-up, are attached and that paint is not where it shouldn't be.
    - Look for missing, non-original, or out of place fasteners. All these components are possible signs off a collision.
    - Check for signs of rust in the wheel wells and inner fender.
    - Check the condition of all the exposed rubber on the suspension joints.
    - Make sure the gaps in the body panels are all even.
    - Walk all around the car and look at each panel at different angles.
    - Look for small dents and dings, and make sure the paint matches all around.
    - Look over the paint condition very closely.
    - Check around all the glass to see if it has been replaced.
    - Check the manufacturer information on the glass to see if they are all the same.
    - Make sure all the exterior lights work.
    - Check the headlamps for cracks, moisture or fogging/yellowing.
    - Make sure to test every last switch in the car to make sure it works (power windows, locks, turn signals, light switch, dome lights, power seats, cruise control, etc.).
    - Use all the functions on the A/C and make sure they all work. Go from HOT to COLD A/C and make sure it's getting very hot, and very cold. If it has a factory alarm, make sure the key-fobs work.
    - Check the interior for excessive wear.
    - Check all of the fluids and make sure the fluid isn't terrible.
    - Find out what oil that has been used and how often it was changed.
    - Ask if anything has been done to it.
    - Ask about modifications if any.
    - Make sure it still has the spare tire, jack and wrenches, owner’s manual, and targa wrench if applicable.
    - Try to get the repair records.

    Final Approval
    --------------------
    - Do a VIN and Chassis Number check.

    Other Tips
    ---------------
    - Smoke at cold start-up, leaving a stop-light, or throttle inputs from idle could be valve stem seals.
    - Smoking for no good reason or if it doesn't stop pretty rapidly could be piston rings.
    - A pop sound when starting or stopping or when making a sharp low speed turn is the driver’s side engine mount.
    - A clicking sound under initial mild acceleration or deceleration that lasts for only a second or two then stops and sounds exactly the same regardless of speed could be the rear upper control arm bushings.
    - A clicking that changes with speed could be the wheel bearings.
    - A creaking noise from the hatch when turning up hill could mean it needs rubber hatch bumpers.
    - Rattling from above you means the targa is loose (make sure the targa bolts loosen and tighten back down smoothly).
    - Make sure the targa wrench is present.
    - If you can really smell the exhaust fumes when coming to a stop, it has no catalytic converters.
    - When checking under the car for leaks don’t be alarmed by an oil sludge on the transmission and differential. That is a greasy undercoating that Toyota applied.
    - Insure all the major body panels have the original VIN number visibly stuck on them, make sure they are all still there and are the right number.
    - Open the oil fill cap, and look inside for sludge build-up, there should not be any.
    - If they have owned it for several years and say they have done nothing to it don't take that as being a completely good thing.

    All in all, I have to say, it looks good!
    Hope this helps and Good Luck buying it!! "

    Habt ihr sonst noch Tips?

    Das ist übrigens die Fahrgestellnummer: JT164JA8000013540

    Der Deal ist so gut wie eingetütet.

    Hier mal ein paar Auszüge aus dem Mailverkehr:

    Boost controller greddy
    TTC
    3" downpipe torque
    3"midpipe torque
    3" catback torque
    Open intake
    Front mount inter cooler
    Hard pipe kit

    Original parts:
    Inter cooler (not piping)
    Exhaust
    Rims
    Front lip (need paint )
    Wing (need paint)


    The car will be served with oil and filter before delivery.

    The car has service book but the latest service is not in it.
    Restored in 2014 so no damages super fine in paint.

    The seats have som scratch but noting big.

    The cambelt was change not many km ago but 4 years, so
    It should have a service.


    Gibt es Besonderheiten für Autos aus Schweden oder deren Einfuhr?

    Wie sind meine Chancen auf eine Zulassung mit dem Tuning?

    Ist es richtig dass ich noch eine Bescheinigung von Toyota Deutschland brauche bzw. ist das alles?
    Ich bin echt für jede Hilfe Dankbar!

    Viele Grüße

    Lars
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